Dr. Myc MGP Pure - 25 gm

Features:

• Decrease time to pinset by 5 - 15 days
• Up to 50% larger yields, flush over flush
• Less contams - works great for dirty growing environments
• Larger fruits and thicker stipes
• A larger, more uniform pinset with less aborts.

MGP stands for Mushroom Growth Promotion - and DRmyc's PureMGP is the world's first blend of micro-organisms exclusively targeted towards that purpose. This formula encourages drastic yield enhancement and is suitable for use by amateur mycologists, hobbyist mushroom growers, and mushroom farmers alike. With DRmyc's PureMGP blend, you can reliably expect an increase of between 30-50% in yields, while decreasing the time to fruit substantially.

Works with most dung-loving species, growing in CVG, manure and master's mix substrates.

Directions for use:

1. Add 2 grams of MGP Pure or MGP Plus per 1L of non-chlorinated water (RO or Distilled is best) and add to a sprayer bottle.
2. Mist colonized grain spawn directly when mixing spawn and bulk substrate material, and then mix it in. Avoid spraying substrate directly where possible, and do not overapply – usage rate is one “spray” per pound of substrate used.
3. Apply once weekly if additional treatments are needed after pinset and fruiting have begun.
4. Store extra mix in the refrigerator and uUse the contents of the bottle within 6 months for best results.

Alternative dry use:

NOTE: MGP Pure can also be used as a part of the grain soak when making your own grain spawn, creating metabolites hardy enough to withstand sterilization, resulting in faster colonization of your grain and lower contamination rates.

• Add to grain soak at a rate of 1G per 2.5 Gallons of water and mix with grain/water.

FAQ's:

1) When kept in the fridge, is it okay to continue using the solution until it starts to smell, or is there a hard cutoff as to when you should toss it even if nothing strange is growing inside and it has no odor?

If the solution starts to smell strongly, it will have entered its exponential growth/die off phase. The microbial soup that the odor represents will have too large of a preponderance of VOC's to be useful. Applying it after this point will simply cause issues for the grow (likely stalling it out) and will not create the situation we are looking for - where the microbes and the mycelium coexist in a beneficial ecosystem.

2) Do you need to sanitize the spray bottle or the water being used before adding MGP (as you would other things that come in contact with the myc, sub and grain)?

It is ideal that the sprayer bottle is sanitized before use, using Iso 70. This will make it so that there are no nasties left in the sprayer bottle. We typically add it, swoosh it around, spray a couple of sprays, and empty the rest out. We then tend to rinse the bottle inside out with reverse osmosis or distilled water, then add the microbes/water.

3) How many ml's per pound of grain + sub do you recommend spraying? It is okay to spray a bit more, or is this the ideal amount?

Approximately 1 mL of solution should be sprayed per 1 lb of hydrated spawn/substrate. This varies between sprayer bottles, but between 1-2 sprays per lb of substrate should be appropriate and not cause any issues. A little more is fine, a little less is fine - too little (less than 1 spray per lb) or too much (2mL per lb of hydrated spawn/substrate) will either cause an application failure (no noticeable difference) or an excess of microbes that can cause deformed fruits and overlay.

4) The instructions say to spray the inside of the bin and then add the first layer of sub, but somewhere else I saw it said to avoid getting it on the substrate. Should you spray the bin and the grain, or just the grain?

Avoiding getting it on the substrate is mainly a concern for the casing layer/top of the spawn/substrate. We have found that if you spray the casing layer, depending on genetics, overlay can become an issue. The spraying of the liner is simply to provide a barrier to any contamination that may be lurking on the inside of the bin, and guarantees a robust application. Wiping with ISO 70 is usually enough though, so this step can be bypassed, but we still recommend it as insurance.

5) Also, when reapplying every 3-5 days do you spray the sides and lid of the tub, or the sub directly? And how many ml's per pound of grain + sub?

We like the mixture to be sprayed onto the walls of the tub, as this prevents bruising of the mycelium, and the microbes still get to where they need to go. A good guide for this would be 1-2 sprays per 10 quarts of monotub capacity. We recommend starting with 1 spray, and seeing how your genetics respond (no overlay, no deformed fruits, etc). So spray 1-4ml per 10 quarts

6) When spraying the top of the sub between flushes to rehydrate it says to use 0.25 grams. Does that mean you want to use 0.25 grams regardless of how much water? E.g. if you only irrigate with 4 ounces, you would add 0.25 grams to that ounce of water?

Yes, that is correct - 0.25 grams will do the trick for whatever the amount of water when well mixed in (up to a 66 qt monotub). For smaller monotubs (shoeboxes, etc) 0.1 gram will be sufficient.

7) Assuming you don't have a trich problem, would it make sense to use PLUS after the first flush and PURE for every application prior to that?

That is correct, and that is how we use it. We also encourage customers to look into their processes for Trichoderma prevention, but in conjunction with MGP Plus to start things up, and MGP Pure to keep things going, people tend to have a much more favorable mycology experience and better harvests too.